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Celebrating More Than 20 Years of Wine and Food Appreciation

 

A brief primer on German Wines

By Ron Kapon

 

German wine regions lie along the northern limits for grape growing at latitude 50 degrees. Above that line summers are too short and the limited sunshine does not allow enough warmth for the grapes to ripen. Light, delicate, low alcohol white wines are the hallmark of Germany. The vineyards are mainly steep, south-facing, near rivers that temper the climate and act as a heat reflector (the Rhine and Mosel and its tributaries, the Saar and Ruwer). The mist and fog in early autumn protect the grapes from frost.

Monastic orders with their studies and care of the vines were responsible for the cultivation of  many of the finest vineyards. In 1803, Napoleon conquered the Rhine region and secularized all the monasteries. He divided the churches’ vineyards into small parcels and sold them to private owners. Some of the larger estates were taken over by the state.  

RIESLING PREVAILS         

Riesling is “top dog” in Germany (20% of all plantings) because it is frost-resistant, does well on stony soil and needs little moisture. It also ripens very late. Muller-Thurgau (15%) is the most widely planted grape. Silvaner (6%) and Gewurztraminer are other important varieties. If 85% of a wine is from one grape it can be noted on the label. More then 34% of all planted vineyards are planted with red wine vines . Almost 11% of all grapes grown in Germany are Spatburgunder or as we know the variety — Pinot Noir.

Germany is a nation of small wine growers with most of the vineyard sites split among several owners. Ripeness at harvest is the key to understanding German wines. I will mention only that which you are apt to see in supermarkets and retail stores: Tafelwein (everyday table wine); Qualitatswine (QBA — most German wines from one of the 13 wine-growing regions, such as Rheingau, Mosel etc). Qualitatswine mit Pradikat or QmP are six special attributes which will appear on the label as: Kabinett (fully ripened), Spatlese (second picking), Auslese (very ripe bunches of grapes), Beerenauslese (BA- overripe individually selected berries), Eiswein (made from frozen grapes), Trockenbeerauslese (TBA- selected harvest of very ripe berries shriveled almost to raisins). Most Rhine wines are bottled in slender, swan-necked brown bottles; most Mosel wines are bottled in green bottles.

The most important of the 13 wine-growing regions is the Mosel (bordering on Luxembourg) and its two small tributaries, the Saar and Ruwer that flows serpentine-like north toward the Rhine. Most work must be done by hand as its banks rise almost 70 degrees and are among the steepest in the world. The Rhine begins in Switzerland and flows north, then west and then north again, meeting the Mosel. The Pfalz has the largest production; the Rheinhessen is the largest wine region and Riesling is king in the Rheingau.

Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter or The Association of German Pradikat Wine Estates (VDP) with over 200 members (representing 3% of total wine growing) must pledge to grow at least 80% of their estate’s acreage in traditional grape varieties. As of 2004, VDP estates are restricted to printing vineyard names on their labels from classified sites only (Grosses Gewachs- Great Growths). There is an additional sensory evaluation of the wines to supplement the government quality test.

   For more information on German wines go the web site www.germanwineusa.org

 

 
 

 



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