Soon after our early morning flight across the country, landing at the ocean-side landing strip, we were off in our three brand new Chrysler mini-vans to our accommodations at the Hotel Donatello, where Tasters Guild groups have stayed on many previous trips. The hospitality is superb, the location, just a block from Union Square, is ideal, and the upstairs restaurant, Zingara, serves some of the best Italian food in the city. We enjoyed our welcome dinner of many courses with a selection of very interesting Italian wines until the late hours (jet-lag was something we’d worry about tomorrow). The next day we went in all directions; naturally some on the cable cars down to Fishermen’s Wharf, others over to Berkeley across the Bay, others for a stroll through Golden Gate Park.

Then we drove across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sonoma and the newly remodeled El Dorado Hotel, right downtown on the square in Sonoma. Part of this hotel was originally General Vallejo’s soldier’s barracks back in 1840, but it’s truly modern now and retains the Mexican flavor in decor. And their El Dorado Kitchen had just reopened to much acclaim. Chef Ryan Fancher, former French Laundry sous chef, treated us to a selection of appetizers such as Fennel Marmalade and Nicoise Olive Tapenade in Puff Pastry Shell that blended nicely with the local Sonoma Mayo Family Pinot Grigio from their Baletto Vineyard. The dinner selections were no less spectacular. We could tell, right from the beginning, that our week in Sonoma would be unforgettable.

Earlier that afternoon, after checking in, we had traipsed the few blocks to the old Sebastiani Winery to take in the historical tour. Little has changed in all the years since old August Sebastiani used to greet visitors wearing his striped bib overalls. The beautifully carved oak casks still awe visitors, the tasting room and gift shop hold a bounty of delectable items. but recently, after some years of rather mediocre offerings, Sebastiani is back on top with their premium varietals taking awards at wine judgings and high ratings in wine journals. It was obvious that the younger generation will maintain the Sebastiani heritage.

Early the next morning we were off, and where could you begin the tour better than with a cold glass of Gloria Ferrer Brut in hand as you gaze out across the valley from the veranda of this Spanish-style hacienda. The tour of the caves, the vast selection of different sparkling wines, and the opportunity to taste their new bottlings of luscious, red Pinot Noir was the perfect way to spend a Sunday morning. Next, it was down the road to Viansa, the new Italian winery and market developed by a second branch of the Sebastiani family. They specialize in traditional Italian varietals and particular favorites at our tastings were the Vernaccia and Sangiovese. Enjoying these with a luncheon of Grilled Chicken Panino and Basil Pesto Pasta was a delight; and in the background we could enjoy the sounds of Johnny Cash (at least he sure looked and sounded a lot like Johnny as he serenaded the picnic crowd).

Next was a step back in history. Scheduled for the afternoon were quick trips to Gundlach-Bundschu (loved the Gewurztramer), Bartholomew Park (the port-like late harvest Zinfandel stole the show) and Buena Vista (the Clone 5-Pommard Pinot Noir took honors). These three wineries share the history of winemaking in Sonoma from the very beginning, tracing their heritage back over a century. The historical memorabilia on display at each helped us understand and appreciate why Sonoma is so important in wine history and how it became what it is today. Dinner that evening was at the world-famous restaurant, just across the street from our hotel, The Girl and the Fig. The Pan-seared Sea Scallops dusted with Fennel Citrus House Blend is one of the specialties of the restaurant and well deserved.

Bright and early the next morning, our first stop was Kunde Estate for a selection of wines beginning with the award winning Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc; just like having a touch of grapefruit to wake up one’s taste buds. Our guide, Natalie, led us through a barrel-tasting of new wines not yet ready for bottling. Nearly next door is Kenwood and our tasting included the Jack London Merlot (rich and raspberryish) and the Jack London Zinfandel (blackberries and spice). As a Tasters Guild group we were then treated to the latest Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon (wow, no wonder it sells for $75 a bottle). Late lunch was at nearby Chateau St. Jean and the box lunch, including a Hazelnut Chicken Salad sandwich and Arugula Viniagrette Salad was just perfect with Estate Viognier and Reserve Chardonnay. Later we tasted the famous Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon and it remains one of the great red wines of America.

On our way back to the hotel, a must-stop occasion was at Landmark Vineyards. This small winery is the pride and joy of Damaris Deere Ethridge and so tour director Dave Ethridge just had to stop in to say "Hello." Unfortunately, the lady of the winery was away at the time so we were unable to ascertain familial connections. Landmark specializes in Chardonnay with several vineyard bottlings. Their entry-level Adobe Canyon Chardonnay is a steal at the price and at the upper end, the Damaris Reserve Chardonnay, outstanding. After a big day, the little cafes and bistros around the square in Sonoma were just the place for a light, relaxing dinner.

Tuesday morning we started in style, with a glass of J Vintage Brut. J Vineyards owner, Judy Jordan, with her resident chef Mark Caldwell, put together a most unique tasting of the J wines paired with the perfect appetizer to compliment the wine. With the J Brut we savored Shrimp Ceviche; with the J Pinot Gris, a roasted cherry tomato and basil pissaladiere; with the J Russian River Pinot Noir, a creamy polenta with sautéed crimini mushroom in a Pinot Noir reduction and finally, with the Nicole’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, a mini pork tenderloin with balsamic fig marinade and red onion confit. As an added treat we then tasted the Robert Thomas Vineyard Pinot Noir, full of cherry, vanilla, violets and a touch of smokiness. Talk about being treated royally!

In spite of having just sampled these luscious tidbits, everybody was ready for the drive further up Sonoma Valley to Chateau Souverain. After a tour and another new wine barrel tasting, we settled on the patio for a tasting and lunch. The crisp gooseberry-like Sauvignon Blanc was followed by a juicy Rose de Souverain and later included a peachy Viognier, the plummy Mourvedre and a nutty Syrah Port. All this while we chose our favorites from the extensive luncheon menu at the Chateau Souverain Restaurant. After a short drive to Dry Creek Vineyard, Dolly Oberti, our winery hostess led us through the delights of long-time Tasters Guild affiliate David Stare’s Dry Creek wines. Long noted for their outstanding Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, we also found some other interesting varieties on their list: a Dry Chenin Blanc, a limited edition Petite Sirah and a newly released Syrah. After a busy day, we retreated to the peace and quiet of Sonoma where we found that the Town Square was filled with local residents shopping at the weekly farmer’s market. The square teemed with happy people, local bands and no shortage of wine-loving shoppers.

Wednesday, our last day in Sonoma, was a delight from start to finish. On the drive up the valley some of the group stopped for a short visit at the Kendall-Jackson Gardens for a brief tour. The gardens are arranged by grape variety: at the Cabernet Sauvignon section you’ll see blackberries, green peppers and all those other things you associate with the aroma of Cabernet Sauvignon. Then beside these plants you’ll find oregano, basil and other herbs you use in cooking when serving a big Cab. A fascinating garden experience and one we wish we had had more time to enjoy. Oh, well, next time.

Others headed directly for the shopping around the Healdsburg square and all the great little cafes for lunch.

Nothing can compare with the formal gardens at Ferrari-Carano. A whole staff of full time gardeners are required to keep them up in colorful, pristine condition. The stroll through the gardens took more than a hour and every minute was filled with breath-taking beauty. The wines of Ferrari-Carano are just as spectacular. Don and Rhonda Carano built their winery in 1981 and released their first wines in 1987. Since then their wines have steadily grown in popularity with the 2004 Fume Blanc and the Bordeaux-style Tresor taking top honors. Following a full line of Ferrari-Carano wines we were treated to the special bottling of Black Muscat, a dessert wine with the perfume of the gardens; roses and violets.

After a short stop at Geyser Peak and a tasting that included a rich, jammy Petit Verdot, we headed for our final event; a tasting, tour and dinner at Jordan. Dinner at Jordan is truly a special occasion. Our guide and hostess, Lisbeth Holmefjord, met us in the garden with a tray of cool, sparkling J Vintage Brut. It’s all in the family — Julie is Tom Jordan’s daughter and she began her winemaking experience at Jordan. For those who have never had the opportunity to visit Jordan, it is an awe-inspiring experience. The gorgeous, vine-covered French-style chateau, the immaculate and sparkling winemaking facilities and the unparalleled cuisine of Chef Udo Nechutnys make it the visit of a lifetime. Dinner began with an Amuse Bouche, a collection of tasty treats, followed by Pan Seared Wild Striped Bass, Baked Squab with Fresh Morels and Gratin of Pommes de Terre; then a cheese course of Pecorino, Camembert and Gruyere, followed by  Baked White Peach with Chocolate Ice Cream. All the while we were enjoying the wines of Jordan, the 2003 Chardonnay and the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon in magnum. Our trip to Sonoma and dinner at Jordan will never be forgotten.