The full name of the region is Friuli Venezia Giulia. It has less than one and a quarter million inhabitants and sits in the northeast corner of Italy with Austria to the north, Slovenia to the east and the Adriatic Sea to the south. Almost half of Friuli (using the shortened version is a lot less confusing to Americans since many assume Venezia or Venice is part of the region, and it is not) consists of mountains,  including part of the Alps. The largest cities are Udine with almost 100,000 population and the regional capitol Trieste, with about 250,000 people. It ranks 17th among the 20 regions in size.

In 181 BC the Romans founded Aquileia, whose ruins have been meticulously restored and are the most important archeological sites in northern Italy. Then there were “visits” from Attila the Hun, the Lombard’s, Charlemagne, the Austrian Hapsburg’s and Napoleon, who did seem to get around. The Venetian Republic  conquered Friuli in 1420 (hence the name) and finally, in 1866, most of Friuli was annexed to the Italian Kingdom. We are up to the two World Wars, most of which were fought in this area, and more swapping of territory. Finally, in 1963, Friuli Venezia Giulia was established as a region of Italy, but with many of the customs and languages of their ancestors still preserved.

THE WINE VARIETIES

But enough history and on to the reason of this article — the wines. More than 60% of its wine production is white with Collio, Collio Oriental del Friuli, Friuli Grave and Friuli Isonzo — four of the better known of the nine DOC zones  (denominazione di origine controllata, similar to the French AOC laws). There is one DOCG,  Ramamdolo (the G stands for garantita or guaranteed, the highest level). Friuli’s reputation was made by mainly small wineries using the Tocai Friuliano grape variety. Because of the rules of the European community the name Tocai must be changed so as not to be confused with the Tokay or Tokaji of Hungary. The Friulian style in whites favor the fresh, fruity and delicate style with very little wood aging and includes Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. But that is also changing as many wineries now favor the depth and complexity that occurs with blending and oak aging. The reds have been traditionally light and fruity, best consumed within a few years of the harvest. That includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and a local favorite Refosco. But here also the blending of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and aging the wine in small  oak barrels has changed the style. The terraced slopes create perfect growing conditions along with the Adriatic and Alpine currents. There has also been a revival of long-neglected varieties including Picolit, a sweet dessert wine popular in the 1800s. I also found Verduzzo, a lighter style dessert wines; Refosco a light, fruity red and the rare Pignolo and Schioppettino, varieties that are drawing lots of attention from winemakers. Add to the list sparkling wines (spumante in Italian) made from Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

THE LOCAL FOOD

Friuli, with its union of three culinary traditions (Austrian, Venetian and Slav) is home to local favorites such as: San Daniele prosciutto and frico (cheese cooked with potatoes and onions) often served as  antipasto. First courses include gnocci and risotto along with Iota, a bean, potato and sauerkraut soup of Austrian origins. Main courses include fresh seafood from the Adriatic and meat and game from the interior. Most meals included polenta, made from maize and fresh produce. It is difficult to resist the desserts of strudel and gubana, a cake filled with dry fruits, raisins and grappa.

Why don’t Americans know more about the wines and food of Friuli? Perhaps there are just too many other regions in Italy that they know and have read about. The food and wine is great, the prices very reasonable, Delta flies non-stop from JFK to Venice, the historical sites rival anywhere in Italy, the roads are good, there are very few Americans yet English is spoken everywhere,  you can visit casinos less than a hour away in Slovenia and the sea is less than an hour’s drive. So what’s stopping you? GO ALREADY.