After a long overseas flight, we arrive in Marseille, France and are met by a Uniworld representative, just as our new travel agent, Cruise Holidays, promised. As fellow Tasters Guild travelers arrive from across the country, we gather inside the terminal and excitedly wait for our French adventure to begin.

Marseille is starkly beautiful. The blue Mediterranean contrasts with white, limestone cliffs and plateaus. This marshland at the mouth of the Rhône River is home to pink flamingos and stunning white horses, and is known for its brown rice and “fleur de sel,” a highly prized brown salt.

Arriving at the river’s edge, we behold the River Royale, the gleaming boat that will be our home for the next seven days. We are enthusiastically greeted by the ship’s captain and crew in the elegant reception lobby. The marble floor, bountiful bouquets of fresh flowers and a colorful mural of Provence at the reception desk is delightful. As we settle into the comfort of our stateroom, we find luxurious satiny sheets, plush down comforter, chocolate-colored marble vanity and thick, terrycloth towels. We are treated to an expansive riverfront view from our cabin window.

In the evening, the travelers unite in the comfortable Renoir Lounge with overstuffed sofas and club chairs for cocktails and “Port Talk.” Our Cruise Manager, Alexandra, informs and entertains with historical facts and trivial tidbits about the locales we will visit the next day. Her melodious, French accent is endearing and she charms us all.

The ship’s open seating plan in the Cezanne Restaurant provides opportunities to dine with many fellow travelers, to be part of a large table setting or to have an intimate dinner for two. Breakfast and lunch is buffet style, accompanied by attentive table service for beverages and soup. Dinner is a multi-course event of Provincial specialties that never fail to please the palette. Wine recommendations by the sommelier include many local varietals that we willingly sampled. 

History Along the River Rhône

Our first port, the city of Arles, population 50,000, is preparing for the bullfights in the ancient Roman Amphitheater in the center of town, and the running of the bulls in the town’s center during the annual Feast of the Rice. Isabelle, a local art historian, provides a lecture on Vincent Van Gogh’s life and the time he lived in Arles from 1888-89. He found the local landscapes similar to the Japanese landscapes he favored. Van Gogh’s somber drawings and reputation as the “master of the gray” gave way to colorful painting as he vividly captured the countryside and the irises and sunflowers of Provence with his heavily textured canvases. During his year in Arles, he produced 150 paintings, including café scenes, portraits and scenes of the Hospital of Arles, whose buildings and gardens he painted during his convalescence there.

Walking guide, Christine, leads us past the 11th century church of St. Trophime and down cobblestone streets the width of sidewalks. Our cameras capture the ancient buildings and Provincial city life, as vehicles skillfully maneuver around us on the narrow streets.

For an inland adventure, guides Frances and Jeanette accompany us on a bus tour through the countryside of Provence. These ex-patriot Brits provide a delightful travelogue that keep us entertained and informed. Both married Frenchmen and they have adopted the Rhône River Valley as their home.

The Wind and the Terrior

The phenomena known as the Mistral, frequent winds from the north blowing down through the Rhône River Valley, contributes to the climate of warm temperatures and minimal rain. This is a pleasing combination for the vines and grapes that produce the Rosé de Provence and Côtes de Rhône wines. Jeanette relates the story of a vintner’s reply to a visitor’s inquiry about how often he watered the vineyard. His indignant answer, “Madam, my vines must suffer.” The misery of the vines creates beautiful wines. The finely pruned vineyards are heavy with fruit. The harvest will begin soon. Rose bushes planted at the end of some rows are a colorful accent, but act as barometers of the health of the vines.

Olive oil and sunflower oil are well known products of Provence, as are the

colorful, provincial, print fabrics. The patterns, originally from India, combine paisley and plaid designs with local icons of sunflowers, olives, fruits and “cicada” or crickets. The cheerful tablecloths and breadbaskets are irresistible souvenirs.

On to Uzes and the Pont du Gare Aqueduct, the fifth most visited site in France. Built by the Romans in the year 52AD of huge, yellow, cut stones, without mortar; the interlocking patterns and arches have held the stones in place for centuries. The Romans were able to calculate exact construction specifications to build the spring-fed aqueduct. The twelve-foot drop in the structure transported 400 gallons of water per second across the river and on to the divertorium where the water was used in Nimes. The prow shaped supports of the aqueduct, like that of a ship, were designed to withstand the rushing water and volatile depths of the river below. This engineering marvel was used until the 17th century.

On the grounds of the Aqueduct Park, sycamore trees line the walkway and 900 year-old olive trees stand sentinel. Olive trees, we are told, take 35 years to reach maturity and routinely live hundreds of years. The area around Uzes is known for growing truffles, the “black diamonds” that grow in the roots of oak trees. It takes 12-15 years to grow them to harvest. These delicacies sell for 1,000 euros per kilo (slightly over two pounds). This walled city, with eight thousand inhabitants, is known as the “town of three towers” for its landmarks that represent the historical distribution of power among the Bishop, the King and the Duke.

We discover Jeanette’s local wine recommendations at Terroirs, a wine shop in Uzes. Tavel is a dry and flavorful rosé wine, and Lirac, a deep, interesting red. We find a new, rosewood handled corkscrew to facilitate our sampling.

Along the Ancient Highway

Our boat is underway and glides effortlessly up the Rhône toward Avignon. We hear only the “swoosh” of the river against the bow. This flat-bottomed vessel, 311 feet long, is amazingly stable. Fisherman, seen along the riverbanks, are undisturbed by the minimal wake created.

We arrive in Avignon in the evening as the lights illuminate the walled city that was the Papal residence for 450 years. The walkway along the river beckons and we hurry to get a closer view of the bridge of St. Benezet, the famous Pont d’Avignon. The lovely, moonlit night draws us closer to the walled city as it glows against the blackness of the sky. We find a narrow, cobblestone street that slopes upward through a break in the wall. A small sign points the direction to the Palace of the Pope.Up and up, we walk and turn, and continue to follow the signs. A few more stairs, and finally there is an open plaza bordered by the Palace of the Pope and the Cathedral of Notre Dames des Doms. Even at this late hour, the plaza is alive with people, yet reverently subdued. Light reflecting off the buildings accentuate the forms and shadows of diners at an outside café, of tourists taking photographs, of students and artists and children. For a magical moment, we are all part of the history of this place.

Martine, a well-traveled and striking Frenchwoman, is our guide the following day for our official walking tour. The ancient city is surrounded by a complete circuit of walls. Inside are the remnants of the original Roman walls and Forum. She explains that the Coat of Arms of Avignon contains three keys signifying the key to the gate of the city, the spiritual power of the Pope and the political power of the Pope. The city’s motto translates to “with beaks & claws,” a testament to its longevity.

Our assignment in Avignon is to purchase a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape wine to bring back to the ship for our first tasting. The vineyards that produce these renowned grapes, comprised of eight thousand acres, make up the largest appellation in France. We find a 2003 vintage at an indoor market kiosk. The Tasters Guild contingent meets in the lounge to sample each bottle and to experience the variety of flavors found in this famous wine. As we select our favorite bottle, we snack on cheese and crackers, and speak of our next day together on the River Rhône.

The adventure continues in the next issue of the Tasters Guild Journal