Thomas Jefferson was one of our country’s most revered statesman, but this designer of the Declaration of Independence was also a passionate wine connoisseur. He was well aware of the healthiness of wine and commented, “In countries which use ardent spirits, drunkenness is the mortal vice; but in those counties which make wine for common use, you never see a drunkard.”

Jefferson was so keen on the subject of wine that he imported hundreds of cases of wine from the great chateaux of France. As U.S. Ambassador to France, he visited and closely studied the winemaking areas of Europe and was convinced that his dearly-loved state of Virginia could also grow grapes and make world-class wine, although his own frequent efforts to do so failed.

Unfortunately, Jefferson never lived to see the day of flourishing Virginia vineyards because others also had a vision and planted another agricultural product, hence, the state became world-renown as a foremost producer of tobacco.

It took a couple of centuries before some enterprising Greeks, Italians, Frenchmen and others decided that there was plenty of quality land left in Virginia to develop their ancestors trade of grape growing and winemaking. One of the crucial elements that encourage these aspiring entrepreneurs was the Virginia Winery Law of 1980. One of the most significant provisions of the law is that, to qualify as a farm winery, at least 51% of its wine must be produced from grapes owned or leased by the winery. Among the many benefits of this provision is that wineries may sell wine at both the wholesale and retail levels without additional licenses.

Today, with the combined promotional efforts of the Virginia Wine Growers Advisory Board and the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, Virginia wines are winning not only national acclaim, but also international recognition.

The Virginia wine Industry has vaulted to the 10th largest state in commercial grape production and 5th among the “classic vinifera” wine growing states. Not only has it produced sales of nearly $70 million, but it has also contributed to over $25 million in wine-related tourism. Obviously, the business of winemaking in Virginia has created a lucrative opportunity for folks from the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Eastern Shore while benefiting the state’s total economy.

AN INVITATION TO VISIT

Under the auspices of the Virginia Wineries Association and the invitation of Tasters Guild Executive Vice President, “Yogi” Barrett, we visited this up and coming wine state. “Yogi” was organizing the annual Virginia Governor’s Cup Wine Competition and invited us to sit in as judges and “stay an extra couple of days to visit some wineries and see what’s going on down here.” Little did we know, or expect, that we would indeed witness some world-class wines from Mr. Jefferson’s beloved home state. 

Expecting to find a prolific amount of cold-hearty native and hybrid grape varieties, we found some fascinating wines made from home-grown, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Merlot, Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah and even the Italian variety, Nebbiolo. My palate was particularly attracted to the experimentation and development of the region’s Sauvignon Blanc. Samples tasted on our judging panel (sorry, we were not allowed to know the label brands) were fresh, crisp and full of dry fruit flavors that would make excellent food companions at the dinner table.

As enterprising and promising as these “classic” varieties are, Virginia is also the home for advocates in favor of bringing back “America’s grape” — Norton. Norton is one of the few, if not the only, native American grape variety capable of producing a good dry red table wine without the “foxy” grape aftertaste. Norton is not a labrusca (e.g. Concord), it is scientifically classified as vitis aestivalis and some experts suspect Norton has a vinifera parent in its heritage. It is not known for certain, but the grape, when properly grown and fermented, produces a very acceptable table wine. 

Some wineries, such as Chrysalis and winemaker/owner Jennifer McCloud, “would rather work on making the world’s best Norton than the 400th Merlot.” Another huge promoter of Norton is winemaker Dennis Horton of Horton Vineyards (yes, Horton Norton is a catchy handle). Horton has trumpeted the Norton grape since the early 1990s and has probably attained the most attention and national recognition for this underestimated grape variety.

When visiting Virginia wine country, one is taken by the variety of operations that exists among the state’s nearly ninety wineries. From the converted old barn winery and tasting room of Willowcroft Winery, to the family tasting room porch and delicious Greek food at Windham Winery, to the modern showplace of Prince Michel Winery, museum and gift shop and the fascinating view from the Stone Mountain Winery stately built on the side of the mountain, local wine country offers an array of captivating scenes in the beautiful open landscape of the Commonwealth of Virginia.

When you’ve had enough of winery visits, take in the state’s quaint historic towns and villages. Visit a myriad of antique shops, historic buildings, civil war grounds and one or more of the dozens of food and wine festivals. The people are wonderfully friendly and the wine is worth the visit.

Tom Jefferson would be proud, maybe even amazed.