Dateline: Mendoza, Argentina

For decades the Argentines have been producing copious amounts of wine. They are the fourth largest wine-producing country in the world. Unfortunately, quantity and not quality was the name of the game and 95% of the wine made in the country was consumed right there.

But the times, they are a changing. With the devaluation of the Argentine peso in 2002 from 1:1 with the U.S. dollar to 3:1, Argentinas wine exports reached a record $400 million in 2005 surpassing the record $305 million set in 2004. And there appears to be no end in sight.

Over $1.5 billion has been invested in the Argentine wine industry in this decade alone. According to the recently formed Expats Club in Mendoza, the French are leading the way followed by the U.S., Spain, Italy, Australia and Chile. Yes, Chile. The Chileans are running out of vineyard land in their narrow country and are investing heavily in vineyards in Argentina.

My winery, Chateau Chantal in Northern Michigan, did several exploratory trips to the region and decided on 137 acres in the Lujan de Cuyo appellation which lies just south of the Argentine provincial capital of Mendoza. The property is planted with 40 acres of Malbec ranging in age from 9 to 40 years. Another 12 acres are planted with 12 year-old Bonarda, a variety originally from northern Italy.

The region is a high (2,600 to 4,000 feet), desert plateau crisscrossed with irrigation canals. The canal system, filled by reservoirs of melted mountain snow, is the lifeblood of all that is green in Mendoza. Three percent of the land is irrigated and highly productive. The remainder is scrub brush and cactus where the gauchos ride herd over one cow per twelve acres, as the land just cant support a higher density.

 A WINEMAKERS DREAM

Owning a vineyard in the Southern Hemisphere is great because you get the excitement of two harvests in one year. In Mendoza we normally harvest in March. During harvest its sunny and usually around 85 degrees F. Because of the extreme height of the Andes, it only rains about five days a year in Mendoza.

Most of the vineyards in the region are harvested by hand. Our vineyard is trellised with the Pergola system which means that all the growth and grapes are over your head. The harvesters are the hardest working people I have ever seen. They go for nine hours a day with a half hour for lunch and working over their heads in 85 to 90 degree temperatures. A really good picker can make up to $1.50 per hour. Unbelievable!

Dining in Mendoza is a whole story of its own, but suffice it to say that its a real treat. There is a never-ending list of wonderful restaurants and, of course, the beef is among the best in the world. Dinner for four at one of the better restaurants in the city with appetizers, steaks, salads, desserts and two bottles of Chandon bubbly (produced right in Mendoza) and two bottles of a very fine Malbec with tax and tip comes to under $60. It may be a little pricey getting to Argentina, but once there, you can eat and drink like a king.

Chateau Chantals Argentine Malbec and Bonarda is currently in the market. Whether you try ours or any other of the exceptional values coming out of Argentina, Im sure you will be very pleasantly surprised. We were, and thats why we decided to stay.