DRY WHITES

2005 The Crossings Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand - $15

In its homeland, France, Sauvignon Blanc is a favored variety in the dry white wines of Bordeaux (Graves, Entre deux Mers) and the Loire Valley (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume). It’s proven an accomplished traveler, putting down roots and making delightful wines in California, Chile, South Africa and especially New Zealand. New Zealand’s Sauvignons have certainly captured the world’s fancy, and why not? They offer an uncanny combo of brisk and lush aromatic and textural impressions and a full range of Sauvignon Blanc attributes. This one features great citrus zest, gooseberry, lemon grass and stone fruit aromas. It tingles the nostrils with its grapefruit, stone dust and saltine emissions. The palate shows tangerine galore, lots of depth and richness, and both acidity and power. Try it with a tangy salsa dish.

2004 Guenoc Estate North Coast Chardonnay, California - $13

In the late 1970s, Orville Magoon, a coastal engineer living in Hawaii, acquired hundreds of acres of rolling land in Lake County’s Guenoc Valley, north of Napa Valley. He developed vineyards on a property that once belonged to Lily Langtry, a famous actress of the late 19th century. Since the first Tasters Guild International Wine Judging, Guenoc has garnered dozens of medals for its wines and even Winery of the Year honors. This proud example is a full-throttle, full-volume Chardonnay harvested from the estate’s vineyards in both Guenoc and Napa Valleys. Yes, there is a dusting of attractive, toasty oak seasoning. It merely augments the fruit though, which is so abundant, so forthcoming, that the oak has no opportunity to dominate. Wouldn’t this be lovely with scallops meuniere?

Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Brut, Australia - $13

While we normally associate the best dry sparkling wines with cold climates (Champagne comes first to mind), the warm and sunny island continent of Australia can certainly boast its fair share of surprisingly sophisticated “bubblies.” Count Jacob’s Creek among these, thanks, in part, to the selection of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the major players of Champagne. The quality and style of these varieties is fully evident, Pinot Noir offering soft strawberry and cherry red-fruit impressions, Chardonnay countering with crisp notions of apple and citrus. Plus, there’s a nice degree of doughy bottle bouquet assuring that this wine has aged on its lees for an appreciable period. It’s proven a steady medal winner at Tasters Guild International Wine Judgings. Enjoy as an aperitif or serve throughout your Thanksgiving feast.

2005 Mcmanis Family California Viognier, California - $12

Ten years ago, the McManis family competently added winemaking to its grape-growing activities. The family’s vineyards lie in a relatively cool section of California’s Central Valley, where a gap in the Coast Range allows maritime air to pour through via San Francisco Bay. Viognier is a McManis forte. A native of Condrieu in France’s northern Rhône Valley, Viognier began a generation ago to spread to vineyards south and then leap-frogged the waters to  New World lands. Its popularity may be attributed to the wine’s combination of fragrance and dryness. And, my, do you get the aromatic intensity in this rendition! Big, essential-oil  perfume, intense tropics, Mango-Bango! Tremendous, decadent display of honey, apricot and flowers too. The palate shows juicy, pulpy mango flavors on a stony platform, with good acidity and a nice measure of smooth Viognier glycerin followed by a dash of vanilla on the aftertaste. Ideal with a warm, herbed potato salad.

Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla Sherry, Spain (Half Liter) - $12

The most delicate of dry sherries, Manzanilla is grown only around the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda, which faces out across the mouth of the Guadalquivar River toward the Atlantic. Sea breezes are said to convey the lightly salty tang this unique sherry offers. Manzanilla is a sherry to enjoy fresh, especially during the warm months. It’s delicate and won’t retain its fresh appeal for more than a couple of weeks after opening. That’s why you

frequently see it in 375ml and 500ml bottles. La Gitana is a classic, offering chalky aromas and flavors of flor yeast, Golden Delicious apple notes of the Palomino grape variety, a nutty aspect from barrel aging, and, yes, the salty tang of the sea. Why this, the perfect aperitif wine, is not enjoyed by more Americans is a mystery. Come sample with a variety of tapas such as almonds, olives, calamari and spicy sausages, and you’ll become a new convert!

SEMI-DRY WHITE

2005 J.H. Selbach Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Kabinett, Germany - $9

The middle Mosel village of Bernkastel, famous for the great Doctor Vineyard, is not just about expensive Rieslings. Other vineyards nestled on the steep hillsides nearby produce attractive Riesling wines that cost a fraction of the prices Doctor commands. Johannes Selbach, one of Germany’s most talented winegrowers, offers a stunning example from the great 2005 vintage. It’s grand, complete and wonderfully plump and racy. This vintage gives you both richness and acidity in spades, and in harmony. I haven’t seen the likes of its wines since 1971. Aromas and flavors of lemongrass, honey and tropical fruit are crystal clear and penetrating. Fresh-water fish, please!

DRY REDS

2004 Angove’s Red Belly Black South Australia Shiraz, Australia - $12

After a long hiatus, Angove’s choice Australian varietal wines are back in the American market thanks to a new-found relationship with the Trinchero family of Napa Valley. This selection’s name and label feature a colorful snake indigenous to the vineyard areas of South Australia. The wine is especially ripe for an ‘04, and very dark-fruited in the vintage vernacular. A rich and spicy Shiraz nose here, featuring deep fruit aromas of warm black raspberries surrounding a firm core. It’s very entertaining to sniff and sniff again as aromatic layers unfold. Good claret weight, with Euro-like acidity and style. This renders it more facile with a greater variety of foods than the inky-monster, blockbuster Aussie Shiraz editions. Of course, fare from the barbie is just the trick, especially chicken.

2005 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Reserve Painted Label, France - $10

Oh, the 2005 Beaujolais wines are special! Their fruit is so bright, intense, and accomplished. This one features a nose of sweet, ripe black fruits, vivid and spicy. Juicy, alluring raspberry and black cherry aromas pour forth. On the palate, the wine is positively big and assertive as Beaujolais goes, with great stuffing, dimensions and fruit acidity. This is a great wine for egg dishes, which are generally hard to match with wines, and with vinegary fare, another wine adversary. Perfect with andouillettes.

2003 Monte Antico Toscana Rosso, Italy - $13

Just outside Montalcino, the southern Tuscan region famous for its brunello wines, lies the estate Monte Antico. Of fine quality but, due to birthright, not entitled to the esteemed Montalcino name, its wines command a much more modest price than Montalcino’s Brunellos. Some vintages require cellaring, a few improving for close to twenty years. Thanks to the extreme warmth of the growing season, 2003 Monte Antico is not one of these. The vintage is really flattering to this feisty young wine. Nonetheless, you still get the classic structure and fine tannin, the style and sophistication, and the dark cherry, mulberry, black tea and anise aromatic set. On the palate, fatness and softness of ‘03 really gives this wine a broad and early appeal. And there’s strength, acidity and tannin for framing and future. Fine intro to Monte Antico for the uninitiated. This will do nicely with poultry in a spicy tomato-based sauce.

2005 Bodegas Borsao Campo De Borja Vina Borgia, Spain - $8

A land-locked sector of north-central Spain, Campo de Borja lies southeast of Rioja near the capital of Aragon, Zaragoza. Here, plains and hillsides are covered with gnarled, ancient vines of the variety Grenache, called Garnacha in Spain. These low-yielding old vines deliver highly concentrated fruit and, subsequently, dark, dense red wines. From a fine vintage, this one shows color that positively stains the glass. And, oh boy! What a big blast of fresh Grenache aroma, featuring strawberry and raspberry jam. On the palate, the wine feels plush, deep, and variegated — a virtual mouthful. This will sweeten up well-done winter beef and lamb roasts and stews.

2004 Tamari Reserva Mendoza Malbec, Argentina - $14

A refugee of the Bordeaux region of southwest France, Malbec is the number one grape variety of Argentina. Argentine Malbec is black-colored and very hearty. Tamari’s reserve is powerful and liqueur-like, featuring fine oak and spirit, toast and bitter chocolate. The wine’s Malbec fruit statement offers totally macerated, dark Balaton cherries. On the palate, this wine explodes with aromatic intensity and textural breadth. It shows a rich balance of oak and fruit, fine flavor range, and lovely composition. This measuring-rod Malbec will do justice to the finest cuts of Argentine (or U.S.-grown) beef.

Each month wine merchant Dick Scheer will discover, give tasting notes and suggest food pairings for a variety of wines of the season that are available in national distribution. Prices will vary due to location.