PIEDMONT

By Sara Pfaff

From the window seat on the last leg of the trip from Washington Dulles airport to Torino, Italy, the first sight of the morning was the dense fog filling the space between the soft rounded hills of Piedmont. Sleeping underneath the blanket of those patches of soft clouds is one of the most important grapes in all of Italy, Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo takes its name from the Italian word, nebbia or fog. That is why this DOCG area is like none other in the world and the only area where Nebbiolo grapes, after undergoing strict winemaking guidelines, finally hit the shelves under its famous appellations, Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Nebbiolo grape is certainly the king of the Piedmont agriculture, this region of Italy can also be considered a culinary bastion, home to the Slow Food Movement and the white truffle. Wine and food often combine to produce fascinating regional experiences.

Dont Ignore the Dolcetto

Though it did not arrive in a glass, rather, in a serving of risotto, a taste of the local red varietal Dolcetto quickly became a favorite of our tasting tour. A stop for lunch outside of Cuneo, the last major city before the French-Italian border, brought us to Castelletto Stura, a small village remarkable for its charm, the frescoed 15^th Century chapel, and a little restaurant we stumbled upon called Trattoria Roma. Though there was no Roman fare to be found, delectable dishes from the Piedmont tradition have earned this trattoria the Gambero Rosso Slow Food official stamp of approval, the snail. The plates arrived one after another including fresh ingredients from surrounding areas such as venison carpaccio with shavings of Castelmagno DOP cheese and Jerusalem artichoke flan with taleggio sauce. The most distinctive dish was risotto with Dolcetto wine and Toma – a cheese from the neighboring city of Alba. The Dolcetto imparted a beautiful purple color to the risotto as well as an impeccable flavor that had the correct balance of creaminess, salt and, of course, Dolcetto.  Glasses of Dolcetto arrived in time to accompany the risotto and as expected, the results were delicious!

Dolcetto roughly translates as the “little sweet one,” though the flavor of this wine is certainly not little, nor sweet, it is very fruity. It is one of the few Italian red wines that are best drunk upon release as is the case with Beaujolais Nouveau from Burgundy. While often compared to Beaujolais Nouveau, Dolcetto tends to have a fuller body with more complex taste. Though not yet well known in the US, it is a principal grape grown in the Piedmont and is considered a lunchtime or everyday wine. (It should be mentioned that everything in the Piedmont revolves around lunch, and its components are not mere chips and a sandwich, instead, a hearty bowl of risotto with fresh porcini mushrooms or delectable ravioli al plin, small meat filled ravioli usually served in a wine sauce.) 

Eager to taste more of the local Dolcetto, a quick jaunt into the Asti DOCG zone of the Piedmont brought us to Castello del Poggio, an estate that takes its name from the medieval stronghold that dominates it and which once belonged to the noble Buneis family. Dolcetto is a large part of the production here and the vineyard and winery lie entirely within the Monferrato area of the Province of Asti.

Though it is home to one of the worlds most well known DOCGs, Barolo, the Piedmont region is not without a wealth of local varietals that are heavily ingrained in the daily culture of the region and are a reflection of its people and traditions. The next time you find yourself needing an accompaniment for gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese, look no further than a great Dolcetto from Piedmont.

Tuscany

By Sara Pfaff

The ever popular local red varietal Sangiovese in Tuscany reigns monarchical, whether it be Chianti or a Chianti Classico DOCG. Sangiovese grapes are the base of the winemaking tradition in the region. Legend has it that this grape takes its name from a translation of Sanguis Jovis, the Latin origin for the varietal name, literally meaning “blood of Jove” and it is likely that Sangiovese was known by Etruscan winemakers.

In the Siena province lays the quintessential Tuscan hill town of Radda in Chianti. Just a stones throw away, upon one of the highest points in the Chianti Classico DOCG area, lies the Castello dAlbola Estate and Winery. This estate has passed through the hands of family names such as the Pazzi, the Monterinaldi and the Acciaiuoli, for whom their Super Tuscan “Acciaiolo” wine, is named. The predominant grape here is Sangiovese and one look at the Chianti Classico Riserva, a wine made only in the best vintages, and you know why this wines varietal gets its name from the Latin word for blood: Brilliant, full garnet, leaning toward brick red color as it ages.

Vino Toscano Rosso and Bianco   
Though Chianti is the appellation most famous for Sangiovese, follow the grape down toward Tuscanys west coast to the Monteregio di Massa Marittima within the Maremma region of Tuscany and you will find great things taking place in this newly awarded DOC district. The distinctive unique terroir here owes this to its proximity to the coast and the local hills to the east and its rich mineral deposits. At Rocca di Montemassi Estate and Winery, they grow Sangiovese and the indigenous cultivar par excellence of the Tuscan coast, Vermentino grape.

Vermentino wine makes the best of the minerals found in the nearby hills. The grape itself is extremely durable and resistant to both heat and drought; it grows particularly well in coastal areas such as the Tuscan Maremma. Vermentino has a pleasant freshness that makes it an ideal accompaniment for the local seafood and shellfish, like gilt head sea bream cooked in a potato pastry shell. The bouquet is very floral with notes of white flowers and barely ripe fruit. We noted both citrus and almond hints on the mouth. Though Vermentino is one of the most appreciated Italian native whites, it is just beginning to gain strength and visibility abroad. Is there a contender for the ever present Pinot Grigio? Stay posted.

POSTCARD FROM SICILY

By Jane Kettlewell

Sicily is the largest region of Italy, as well as the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Separated from mainland Italys Calabrian coast by the Strait of Messina, Sicily is one of the hottest corners of Europe; its southern portion shares the same line of latitude as the North African cities of Tunis and Algiers.

For centuries this triangular-shaped island was a seething cultural melting pot. Greeks, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish – and Italians, of course – all have at various times settled this strategic Mediterranean outpost. Each has made a lasting imprint on Sicilys vibrant cultural heritage, richly varied architecture and flavourful cuisine.

High on the list of attractions is Mt. Etna, Europes highest and one of the worlds major active volcanoes (10 eruptions in the past 30 years). With the exception of Etnas volatile presence, Sicily otherwise presents a languid, pastoral vista of fertile, mountainous terrain, fields of wheat, citrus and olive groves, vineyards, palm trees and cactus under a blazing sun and peerless blue sky.

Small, bustling seaside resorts and the island capital of Palermo are the chief attractions of Sicilys northern, Tyrrhenian coast. From Palermo take the coastal route due west then southeast through sleepy medieval villages where time seems to have stood still, past ancient Greek temples, some ruined others virtually intact, including the world-famous sites of Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigento. Highlights of Sicilys eastern shoreline include the historic city of Siracusa, with its Roman amphitheatre, Greek theatre, catacombs, museums and Duomo (cathedral) incorporating the elegant columns of a Greek temple. End your trip in Taormina, a medieval hilltop town of legendary beauty, with sweeping views of Etna on one side and the Mediterranean on the other.

La Cucina di Sicilia

Sicilian cooking is a veritable riot of Mediterranean influences. This picturesque island, the largest in the Mediterranean, is noted for an abundance of fish dishes and an equally tantalizing range of mouth-watering desserts. In Sicily the diner can look forward to an array of feverishly different tastes, with sweet and sour flavors often intermingled; so if you have the good fortune to travel to Sicily, come prepared with an open mind and an empty stomach.

   Each Sicilian chef has his or her own style of cooking. Caponata, for example, a traditional Sicilian antipasto consisting of eggplant, capers, and olives and, in some parts of Sicily, peppers, is different in every Sicilian restaurant. Meals might feature pasta or couscous. Arab and North African ingredients and flavors are featured in many dishes, lending Sicilian cooking an almost exotic feel.

Meat has never been a staple of the Sicilian diet. Sicily is one of Italys poorest regions; consequently, meat dishes are not only rare but when they are served, often generously supplemented with other ingredients. A typical meat dish might be prepared alla brace, (on a skewer). Another popular format is to roll a thin slice of meat around sausage, onion, bacon, or cheese. The chief attraction of a Sicilian feast is more likely to be a tuna or swordfish entrée.

Along the coast, pastas are often tossed in flavorful fish-based sauces, instead of the tomato-based concoctions more familiar in mainland Italy. A typical example is a delicious sauce preparation, con le sarde, combining fresh sardines, anchovies, olive oil, raisins, pine nuts and wild fennel.

Unlike their compatriots on the mainland, Sicilians are passionate about desserts. Cassata Siciliana, a traditional Easter dessert, is a rich sponge cake featuring candied fruit, marzipan and icing. Ice cream, or gelato, reign supreme here. For a truly sweet conclusion to your Sicilian dining experience, enjoy a chestnut ice cream smothered in hot zabaglione sauce – a hit with Sicilians and tourists alike.

An Island Alive with Wine 

Sicily has more vineyards than any other region of Italy, an annual production second only to Puglia and the lowest per capita wine consumption in the country. Yet, until as recently as just ten years ago, Sicily was not the first place that sprang to mind in connection with premium Italian wines. Source of a highly regarded dessert wine, Marsala, the island was otherwise known only as a source of wines for blending. So, it is refreshing to report that Sicily is now firmly on the fast track toward acquiring an international reputation for quality varietal wines.

The past decade has seen a remarkable turn-around as quality-conscious Sicilian wineries like family-owned Calatrasi have directed their efforts at bottling and releasing their own wines under their own labels. As a result, Sicily is becoming increasingly well known for an array of impressive and seriously exciting new wines from international and more unusual grape varieties such as the white Catarrato and the up and coming red Nero dAvola. Nero dAvola, is not just another bold red wine from a warm climate, but rather an expression of the wild and exotic land that it calls home, and from that expression, rises a flavor that is in its own class. Deep, ruby red in color with a spicy and broad bouquet, the Nero dAvola is dry and reminiscent of cherries preserved in brandy mingled with a very appealing spiciness that lingers.

Thanks to the pioneering efforts of southern Italys most progressive wine producers such as Calatrasi and a handful of other innovative Sicilian wineries, the wine world has started to experience the advent of truly excellent Sicilian wines from distinctive grape varieties. But the breakthrough is not limited to quality alone: presently Sicily offers some of the best values available in terms of premium Italian wines.