As you begin to explore the world of Italian cheese, it becomes very clear that the variety of cheese offered is enormous. It may surprise you to know that while France exports a greater variety of cheese to the U.S., Italy exports three times more cheese to us than does France. Grana Padano (very similar and much less expensive than Parmesan), Parmigiano-Reggiano, Romano and Gorgonzola make up the bulk of these exports.  It is curious though, that despite its wider range of cheeses, France mostly exports only Brie to the United States.  When most people think of Italian cheeses, they generally bring to mind either the very soft, bland, moist Mozzarella (usually melted on a pizza), the sharp oily Provolone on a deli sandwich, a hard, crumbly, granular Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano. Your image of Italian cheeses may not include the Brie-like, bloomy-rinded Paglia-style and Toma cheeses of Piedmont with its truffle-like taste; Lombardys indigo-streaked Gorgonzola or pungent Tellagio with its crust the color of crème caramel. It is a reflection of the countrys extremely varied terrain.

Different Regions – Different Cheese

Naturally, the territory of origin will leave its mark on a cheese, defining the types that can be made and their flavor profiles.  Like wine, cheese reflects the terroir, so no two cheeses, just as no two wines or vintages are the same.  The colder North offers a vast range of soft or pressed cheeses, while the South offers cacioricotta cooking-and-rennet-based coagulation techniques to avoid climate-related problems.  Steven Jenkins, author of “Cheese Primer,” states in his book that when he goes into a good cheese shop in Bordeaux, Paris or Lyon, he finds cheeses from all of the regions of France.  However, if you are in Italy in the town of Pescara on the Adriatic and visit a laterria (dairy store) to buy cheese, you will not find any Telaggio from Lombardy or Robiola from Piedmont.  What you will find is cheese that the people of that area make and eat - Provolone, Mozzarella, Caciocavallo and some hard pecorino (sheeps milk cheese).

Nancy Radke is the Director of the U.S. Office for the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano, the industry group that certifies the authenticity of this cheese.  She states, “The parallels between wine and cheese are remarkable.  Both are made from a simple base liquid of unpasteurized grape juice or milk that is transformed through fermentation; yeast for wine, bacteria for cheese. They both require a certain amount of aging.” Despite their similarities, pairing them can be quite an undertaking. In general, wine and cheese from the same region marry well. The most important rule is that neither overwhelms the other.  A robust blue cheese like Gorgonzola should be matched with an equally strong red.  A more delicate, creamier cheese like mascarpone should be paired with an intense fruity white or fruity red wine.  Many wine connoisseurs recommend white wine, not red, with cheese, and often sweet.  However, a contrast can be extremely pleasant.  Enjoying sweet and salty or sweet and savory flavors together is a pleasure.  Perhaps this is why cheese and wine make such great partners. Pairing them should be entertaining and fun.  There is no limit to the flavors and interesting textures of Italian cheeses or the ways that they can be used. 

As Italy produces some of the finest cheeses in the world today, it is difficult to imagine Italian cuisine without cheese, whether it is a cheese plate, mixed into risotto or pasta or made into a dessert.  There are three classic combinations of trios using Italian cheeses that are very worth trying:  Parmigiano, honey and walnuts; Mascarpone, pears and hazelnuts; Gorgonzola, figs and pine nuts.  Again we see the sweet, salty, savory combinations.  Scott Conant, Executive Chef/Co-owner of LImpero in Manhattan, prides himself on LImperos selection of cheese.  Chef Conant offers eight different Italian cheese plates from which diners can select three.  One of the selections is unlikely but a delicious combination: Gorgonzola with shaved bitter chocolate and orange and peperoncino marmelatta. “The orange compote and bitter chocolate gives the cheese depth and soul,” says Conant.   Another delicious combination offered to customers at the Fox and Obel (a gourmet retailer in Chicago) is aged Parmigiano with a drizzle of 20 year old balsamic vinegar from Modena.  The sweetness of the balsamic vinegar plays wonderfully with the saltiness of the cheese.  Do not be afraid to try different combinations of fruit or other condiments with your cheeses.  This is where the fun lies.  You never know when you will find a stunning combination.

Keeping Cheese

Finally, lets talk about storing those wonderful cheeses you have in your home.  Part of the problem of storing cheese in your home can be solved by purchasing, from a reputable retailer, smaller portions for consumption within a few days.  How sad that old-fashioned larders (cool areas for storing food prior to use) no longer exist.  If they did, one might consider buying a whole immature cheese directly from an Alpine cheese maker to age in their own cellar.  The modern equivalent is the section of the refrigerator where the temperature is near-but never below-freezing.  Some connoisseurs prefer to keep hard or aged cheeses separate from younger cheeses.  Remember that the cheese should be taken out of the refrigerator, unwrapped and allowed to breathe for half an hour to an hour before it is consumed.

Taste, taste, taste.  That is the best advice anyone can give you when it comes to cheese.  Seek out those specialty cheese retailers that make you feel comfortable and are knowledgeable about the cheeses they sell.  They will gladly provide you the opportunity to explore and appreciate the wonderful diversity of Italian cheeses.