In each issue of the Journal, Wine Merchant Dick Scheer, offers tasting notes on value wines from around the world.

DRY WHITES

Kriter Cote d'Or Blanc de Blancs Brut, France - $12

Sparkling wines are made in all the major winegrowing regions of France, not just in Champagne. Kriter, for instance, is based in the heart of Burgundy, near Beaune. Nice, fluffy, creamy, moussey, appley and citrusy blanc de blancs nose. Lots of flair and appeal. Shows lees autolysis bouquet and tensile blanc de blancs fruit. Very bright and flavorful on the palate. Chardonnay makes its presence known. The wine is well-balanced, shows some bottle bouquet, a fine mousse, and a lovely original fruit personality. Perfect for a summer brunch.

2006 Giesen Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand - $13

While New Zealand Pinot Noirs have ridden the “Sideways” wave to newfound popularity, Sauvignon Blanc is still the nations signature varietal. Something about the uncanny amalgam of crispness and creaminess. Giesens shows plenty of tropical richness as well as grass, grapefruit and gooseberry vigor on the nose. The palate sports that delicious New Zealand Sauvignon yin and yang of citrusy acidity and ripe pear, peach and mango tastes. Goes well with Pacific Rim seafood featuring sweet, tart, and/or hot tastes.

2005 Joseph Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay, France - $12

Burgundys Chardonnays especially, Drouhins are usually less demonstrative than Californias. From the great 2005 vintage, this wine is an exception. Full, thick, powerful. Pear, apple, loquat, and vanilla creme aromas. Plump and gregarious, pretty, fruity, forward, engaging nose with oak, nut and grain smells of a Cote dOr Chardonnay. Thick-textured, with lots of body from high alcohol — 13%. Oak toastiness comes out on the palate. Lots of apple flavor, plus cereal grains, oak spices, minerals. Solid, authoritative. What to serve? Briefly sautéed pork tenderloin medallions, deglaze the pan with Laforet, reduce the sauce until it coats a spoon, drizzle over the pork and apples. Yum!

2005 Argiolas Costamolino Sardegna Vermentino, Italy - $15

Vermentino, called rolle in Mediterranean France, is poised for explosive growth. Avant-garde Rhone and Tuscan winegrowers are planting it widely. In its homeland, Sardinia, Argiolas makes one of the worlds finest wines from Vermentino grown at high altitudes, where, at ripeness, it achieves plenty of body while retaining fine acidity and fragrance. Vermentino offers the apple, citrus and nuts qualities of Pinot Gris (Grigio) plus some of the tropical fruit and flower nuances of Viognier. Delicious with pork or poultry steeped in Mediterranean herbs.

2006 Catena Alamos Mendoza Viognier, Argentina - $12

Twenty-five years ago, Viognier was pretty much confined to a small and declining section of terraced, hillside vineyards above the northern Rhone village of Condrieu. Since then, it has spread south to Mediterranean France and subsequently to New World winegrowing regions, where it is flourishing. Very crisp and alert. Flowers, pineapple, other tropical airs. Lush but dry. Balanced. Ideal Viognier textural combo of great acidity, light glycerol and fine astringency. A textbook intro to Viognier. Serve with a French-inspired cold potato salad made with olive oil or aioli.

2005 Boutari Mantinia Moschofilero, Greece - $15

The pink-skinned native Greek variety Moschofilero thrives on the high plateau of Mantinia in central Peloponnese. It produces a bronze-tinged dry white wine of unique fragrance and flavor, vaguely allied  to Muscat. Spicy, nutty, perfumed, textured nose. Lively palate, with great texture and subtle musk perfume. Serve with fresh asparagus or with a traditional Greek salad featuring herb-infused olives and feta cheese.

SEMI-DRY WHITES

2005 Woodbridge Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling, Germany - $9

Yes, Woodbridge is the California brand created by Robert Mondavi, named for the town near Lodi where he made his first wines. So why a Riesling from Germany? Because Rieslings growing popularity has outpaced the production capacity of Californias vineyards. Good Mittel Mosel flower, peach, citrus peel and green grape. Kabinett level of sweetness and concentration. Very cool green melon and green grape flavors. Excellent acid-sweet balance. Well-structured. Sip this on the terrace with fresh fruit or serve with cold picnic fare.

2006 Robertson Vineyards Special Late Harvest  Gewurztraminer, S. Africa - $11

Robertson is one of the Capes warmer, inland winegrowing regions. Contemporary viti- and vinicultural techniques have fostered a quality revolution here, while prices remain modest. Very scented, rangy and exotic. Also lychee, orange, kumquat, cold cream and rose, but more of the former set of bitter perfumes which nicely foil the sweetness of the presentation. Perfumed in the mouth too. Certainly late harvest sweet, but nicely balanced with zippy acidity and gewurzs inherent astringency. Plenty of expression and authority. Lots of possibilities with both Pacific Rim and Indian Rim cuisines.

ROSÈ

2005 Falset Marca Montsant Rosado, Spain - $12

Montsants old vineyards climb terraced hillsides high above Barcelona and the Mediterraean. Imagine, a rosé from 100-year-old Garnacha (Grenache) vines! Big, weighty red fruits. Fresh, bright and cool. Strawberry, raspberry, cherry, cranberry and peppercorn aromas. Variegated in both flavors and textures. Lovely acid race. As big and broad-shouldered as a Tavel rosé, with less headiness. Serve with Mediterranean fish stew or with paella.

DRY REDS

2005 Redheads Studio Yard Dog Southeast Australia Red, Australia - $12

This is what the wine trade calls a  critter label. Animal brands are ubiquitous these days, as winemakers experiment with gimmicks that might catch the consumers fancy. Like a yard dog is commonly a mixed breed, this wine is a mix of  grape varieties: Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet. While all these grapes are familiar to Bordeaux wine-lovers, its unusual to see Petit Verdot the headliner. This variety loves warmth, ripening fully in only the balmiest Bordeaux vintages yet readily and steadily in southeastern Australia. This ones ripe indeed. Dark raspberry and currant aromas of Petit Verdot run deep. Nice, forward, spicy, round and attractive black fruit flavors. Good acidity too. Im thinking Delmonico steaks on the “barbie,” and dont hold back on the spicy barbecue sauce.

2006 Castle Rock Sonoma Pinot Noir, California - $14

Wines from a wide variety of West Coast regions are purchased and distributed under the Castle Rock label, all showing original character and good value. This Pinot is very fresh and juicy and surprisingly fulfilled already. How do they bring these to fruition so quickly? The wonders of modern winemaking stimulated by market demand make it happen. Good for science! Real Pinot Noir aromas here. Full cherry, tea, peel and pitch Pinot tones. Attractive, clinging, fine-grained tannins. Bright, juicy acidity. Full, fine extract. Bountiful in flavor. Ripe for Peking Duck.

2005 Cono Sur Rapel Valley Syrah, Chile - $10

Like the aforementioned Viognier, Syrah has spread from its home in Frances northern Rhone Valley to New-World lands. As Shiraz, its long been a mainstay in Australias vineyards. Chile, however, is a relative newcomer to Syrah and a very promising one. Chiles Syrahs seem to strike many of the same aromatic notes as northern Rhones rarities. Cono Surs  is cool and graceful, with the right notes of raspberry, peppercorn and lavender. Oh, and theres the bacon at the end! Indeed, a complete northern Rhone Syrah profile. Will flatter crown rack of lamb.

2004 Concannon Limited Release Central Coast Petite Syrah, California - $14

Called Duriff in southern France, Petite Syrah bears no relation to Syrah. Its been in Californias vineyards for generations, contributing color and body to old-time Burgundy blends. Concannon was the first to bottle it as a varietal wine in the early 1960s. Heady blueberry and  boysenberry fruit with spicy oak aromatics. Lots of form and lots of class, too. Creamy, long-lasting finish with finely burnished tannin extension. Delicious with char-broiled hamburgers and all the trimmings.

2005 Cecchi Bonizio Maremma Sangiovese, Italy - $10

The Tuscan coast is alive with new vineyards and winegrowing zones. Bolgheri, Maremma, Monteregio and Scansano havent yet achieved household recognition like Chianti Classico and Montalcino, but their notoriety is spreading fast. While wines like Sassicaia command $200 price tags, Tuscan-coast value wines abound. This is real Maremma Sangiovese, dark-fruited, with maritime coolness, juiciness. Cherry, plum, and anise aromas and flavors speak Sangiovese loud and clear. A remarkably sophisticated wine of place for such a modest price. Serve with veal shanks in a marinara sauce.

2001 Bodegas Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja, Spain - $14

A generation back, if you wanted a fine Spanish red wine, you requested a Rioja. Today, the options are myriad, yet Rioja remains the bastion of tradition. Long aging in barrels defines Rioja quality and style. A reserva must age at least three years minimum in barrel to qualify. Sweet and sassy, lightly toasted, vanilla-dabbed American oak nose. The discreet, claret approach of old time Rioja. The palate makes a classic, traditional Rioja statement too. Plenty of savor, nothing too heavy, too modern. Great acidity and form of a top vintage. Has a weight and style that doesnt tire. Oblige with suckling pig.