2005 Domaine de Cassagnoles Cotes de Gascogne, France - $9

This is a wine from the region of Armagnac. Armagnac lies in southwest France, upriver from the famous winegrowing region of Bordeaux. Once, Armagnac exported brandies exclusively — some of the worlds finest. Its table wines were reserved for the producers tables. Lately, however, some estates have begun to market these table wines under the banner Cotes de Gascogne (Slopes of Gascony). Most wines are white, from indigenous varieties ugni blanc (known as trebbiano in Italy), colombard, and gros manseng. Gently fragrant, brisk, and snappy, this one is bound to brighten up a table set with fresh spring vegetables and greens.

2005 Hermanos Villar Rueda Ipsum, Spain - $9

Ruedas vineyards lie in a triangle created by picturesque northwest Spain cities Salamanca, Segovia, and Vallodolid. Dry white wines from verdejo and viura are the specialty here. This ones 60% of the former, 40% of the latter. The Villar familys vineyards average 30 years of age, while the regions overall average is 15. The old vines produce particularly intense wines, and night harvesting preserves freshness and acidity. This ones unique, different from any Rueda Ive had. Theres a special tonic, botanical sort of aroma. Maybe its citrus peel, like in certain premium gins. This will prove a perfect mate with asparagus.

2005 Meridian Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, California - $8

This brand is so widely distributed that its easy to take for granted. That would be a mistake. Meridians had a great track record at producing attractive Central Coast Chardonnays at exceptionally-reasonable prices. Chuck Ortman founded Meridian in 1984, after stints with such prestigious Napa Valley wineries as Far Niente, Fisher, Heitz, Keenan and Shafer. Ortman sold Meridian in 1988, and since then its been allied with Beringer. I love the winerys 2005 Chardonnay. Its less oaky and buttery than past vintages, so Santa Barbara apple-and-citrus chardonnay fruit has more aroma and flavor impact. This opens up a wider range of lighter-fare accompaniments in both the seafood and the poultry categories.

2005 La Yunta La Rioja Torrontes, Argentina - $10

Confused? Rioja in Argentina? Its true; La Rioja is a western Argentine province near Mendoza, as well as Spains best-known winegrowing region. Torrontes, a native of northern Spain, thrives in the relative warmth of La Rioja and also in the Salta province in northern Argentina. Like Galicias albarino and the Rhone Valleys viognier, its abundantly aromatic yet dry. La Yuntas nose is redolent of spices, cologne, flowers, and tropical fruits. Lime, orange, mango, and citron-infused vodka come to mind on the palate, which is plump, deep-seated, lush, and satiny, with plenty of citrus zest tanginess. Wide opportunities here to serve with Pacific Rim fare.

SEMI-DRY WHITE

2005 Kiona White Riesling, Washington - $9

Kiona was founded in 1980 on Red Mountain, in eastern Yakima Valley. Warm days and cool nights here foster rieslings of good richness balanced by racy acidity. Kiona is one of the few American wineries to name its wine “White Riesling.” The noble Riesling grape of Germany has many pretenders to its throne. Titles “White Riesling”and “Johannisberg Riesling” are guarantees of getting the genuine article in a bottle of American Riesling wine. They were important qualifiers years back, when the market was rife with bottles of Franken Riesling, (Sylvaner) Emerald Riesling (a hybrid), and other wines riding Rieslings coattails. Today these pretenders have largely vanished, and American wines labeled simply “Riesling” are likely to be the real deal. Kionas is lightly sweet, soft and tender, and bursting with tropical-fruits and -flowers aromas and flavors. Excellent with sweet and spicy Thai cuisine.

SPARKLING

Seguras Viudas Rose Brut Cava, Spain - $9

“Cava” is the official Spanish designation for sparkling wines made by the Champagne method, which involves a costly process of re-fermentation and aging in individual bottles, disgorgement of the lees, and sending the product to market in its original bottle. Most cava is produced in the region of Catalonia, in northeast Spain; specifically, in and around Penedes. Here, large producers such as Codorniu, Freixenet, and Segura Viudas have developed methods to reduce the cost of production of “methode champenoise,”  such as mass riddling of the bottles (working the lees down into the bottle necks) via octagonal-based racks named “sunflowers.” In the sparkling-wine world where roses usually command healthy premiums, Segura Viudas is a bargain. It shows a red-fruit nose featuring strawberry, in particular. Long aging on the bottle lees has developed impressive amplitude, depth and sophistication. Enjoy it with heavy hors doeuvres, or throughout a meal.

DRY REDS

2005 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Valle Central Merlot, Chile - $10

One of the largest and oldest of Chiles wineries, Concha y Toro has a wide and deep portfolio of brands and tiers. Casillero del Diablo is three steps up its price ladder, offering remarkable wines at a modest price. Merlot is one of Concha y Toros and Chiles strong suits. Grown on its own rootstock thanks to the absence of phylloxera, Chilean merlot is brimful of varietal character. This 2005 is the best Diablo Merlot Ive tasted, a big showboat of a wine with splashy black currant, blackberry, raspberry, olive and tea aromas, and generous toast-and-vanilla oak complements. Id pair it with game and a cumberland sauce.

2006 Brancott South Island Pinot Noir, New Zealand - $12

Its hard to believe the 2006 vintage is upon us already and a red wine no less! Credit the Southern Hemisphere, where the vintage is six months earlier than ours, and the insatiable post-Sideways thirst for Pinot Noir. New Zealand is an up-and-coming source for crisp, racy, cool-climate Pinot Noirs that relate somewhat to Oregons. Like pinots from anywhere these days, the trick is finding one at a reasonable price. The aroma of Brancotts is bright, racy, cool, vigorous, and Burgundy-like, featuring lots of tart cherry and tea, and a sweet fruitiness, too. The palate displays a lovely harmony of sweetness and tartness. A well-crafted pinot, flavorful, succulent, delicious. Tannins not a factor, which opens the door to seafood companionship.

2005 Pillar Box Padthaway Red, Australia - $10

Pillar Box comes from vineyards owned by the Longbottom family in Padthaway, a South Australian winegrowing region between Adelaide and Coonawarra. The winemaker is Chris Ringland, one of Ozs most talented. He also crafts the Henrys Drive wines from Longbottom grapes. Pillar Box Red is formed of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The 2005 is pretty heady stuff at 15% alcohol. Its nose is irrepressible, featuring billowing, penetrating aromas of ripe fruits and warm spices. Its palate is full, dense, rich, even luscious. This wine calls for beef in a red-wine sauce.

2004 Feudo Arancio Sicilia Nero dAvola, Italy - $9

Southern Italys become a treasure-trove of good wine values, red wines in particular. In both vineyard and winery, the winegrowing process has become increasingly sophisticated thanks in part to a growing involvement of producers from the north. Feudo Arancio, for instance, is linked with northeast Italys MezzaCorona winery. Its portfolio has grown to include grape varieties once unknown in Sicily, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Chardonnay. Nonetheless, Sicilys traditional varieties, such as Nero dAvola, remain key representatives. Nero dAvola offers dark color, fine and distinctive aromatics, good body and plenty of aging potential in both barrel and bottle. Arancios 2004 is redolent of blackberry, blueberry and licorice, with floral and vanilla highlights. The palate offers rich fruit within a firm structure. Not your basic pizza vino rosso, this wine deserves something more upscale, like osso buco.

2004 Symington Family Estates Douro Reserva Vale do Bomfim, Portugal - $13

Best known for its famous fortified wine, Porto, northern Portugals valley of the Douro, now offers us an astonishing range of red table wines too. Many are expensive, but a diligent search discovers some delicious bargains. This one comes from the Bomfim estate of the Symington family, whose repertoire includes the famous Port brands Dows, Grahams, and Warres. Bomfim is the key source of Dows Vintage Ports with aromas of plum, elderberry and flowers. The nose is ripe and refined, but not raisined, not spiritous like a Port. In the mouth the wine is very creamy on entry, with brioche and spice extras, and it finishes with nice, cool, dark, crunchy fruit in the style of the 2004 vintage. I sense broad mealtime applications, including Peking Duck.