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This is so much more than
a cook book – its an art book, its a history book, its a book of
poetry, its a masterpiece. Yes, there are delightful recipes but
you'll find the story of the people of Persia (now Iran) the most
engrossing. You can trace the history of wine through seven
thousand years from its first origins in the Fertile Crecent of the
Near East, an area that includes parts of Turkey and Iran near the
Caspian and Black Seas. This section is magnificently illustrated
with photographs of antiquities, paintings, maps, sculptures, wine
vessels and vineyard sites. The culture, the agriculture, the
changes in religion, the artists and poets of the time are all
related in beautifully flowing prose; and when coupled with the
pictures and writings of the day you begin to understand much more
than ever before about this distant land.
A section on Wine and
Persian Poetry written by Dick Davis, a leading authority on Persian
literature, provides a unique link between Persian poetry and
wine-drinking through translations of ancient writings. Wine
pairings with the exotic foods of Persia is a formidable challenge,
one undertaken by Burke Owens, associate curator of COPIA in Napa.
Putting together these two experts brings even more depth and
substance to the Persian wine and food experience.
The twist of adding Napa
to the Persian story is by tracing the development of a new winery
in Napa founded by Darioush and Shahpar Khaledi and the magnificent
building designed to reflect the ancient palace complex called
Persepolis, built in the sixth century then looted and destroyed by
Alexander the Great just two centuries later. The Khaledi family
came to the U.S. in 1976, just before the revolution, with two young
children and their life savings of $50,000. With other family
members they bought a small grocery store in Torrance, CA and, as
they say, the rest is history. That enterprise is now 23
supermarkets and other real estate holdings; and now, their crown
jewel, Darioush Winery.
Barmanglij is also a
former Iranian, first having left to study in the United States when
she was 18 years old and later with her husband when she left to
reside first in France and later here in the US. She has written
extensively on Persian foods and cooking including several
cookbooks. She was not at first interested in wine; did not drink
and came from a family that forbade alcohol. Only after she was
married and her husband was a wine fancier did she become
interested. Her first introduction to wine was with a glass of
Taittinger Blanc de Blanc as post-revolution refugees in southern
France. Later the family made and bottled their own wines and
eventually moved to the States. She has lectured, traveled
extensively teaching cooking and was persuaded to do this book by
her friends in Napa.
The cookbook
section is filled with mouth-watering treats, from small dishes to
soups, main courses and desserts. The recipes range from amazingly
simple to horrendously complex, but all are worth the effort. A
section on the Culture of Hospitality, planning Persian-styled
dinners and a group of seasonal menus provides needed assistance in
utilizing the recipes. My favorites include Pomegranate and
Pistachio Meatballs, Vine Leaf Wrapped Lamb Kebabs, Pistachio Soup,
Spring-Lamb Shank Braise in Merlot, Saffron and Rosewater with Fava
Bean and Dill Steamed Rice, Chicken and Eggplant Braise with Unripe
Grapes, Persian Gulf-style Striped Bass and Shrimp Braise with
Tamarind, Almond Baklava and Orange Saffron Rice Pudding. My only
question is “Why dont my dishes turn out like the lavish
photographs in the book?” Maybe its my camera…….. |