Celebrating More Than

20 Years of Wine and Food Appreciation

Barrels in Your Attic?

By Sharon Bremner

 If you live in the United States, chances are that you have holiday decorations, old books, photographs, clothes, and the like in your attic.  If you live in the areas of Modena or Reggio Emilia, Italy, you may have a set of wooden casks, the smallest holding the most delectable, dark brown, syrup-like liquid that has been passed down from generation to generation, Balsamic vinegar.

Traditional balsamic vinegar has been called the “King of Vinegars.”  To truly understand it, you must taste it.  Balsamic means “health giving.”  The first historical reference to balsamic vinegar dates back to 1046.  A bottle was reportedly given to Emperor Enrico III of Franconia as a gift.  In the Middle Ages, it was used as a disinfectant.  It also had the reputation as a miracle cure, good for everything from a sore throat to labor pains.

There are four classifications of Balsamic vinegar:

1. Authentic traditional artisan   balsamic vinegar, also known as Balsamico Tradizionale.

2. Commercial grade Balsamic vinegars produced on an industrial scale.

3. Condimento grade products, which are often a mix of the two above.

4. Imitation.

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale

There are only two consortia that produce true traditional balsamic vinegar, Modena and Reggio Emilia.  True balsamic vinegar is made from a reduction of cooked, unfermented grape juice, called Mosto Cotto. Selected Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes are used.  The “must” obtained from the soft pressing of the grapes is cooked on direct heat in steel or copper vats for several hours before alcoholic fermentation begins. It is cooked to reduce the volume up to a half or a third.  The concentrated grape “must” is filtered and cooled and then very slowly transformed through a complex aging process. Saba or Sapa, a sweet and syrupy concentrate, is formed from this process. 

The liquid passes through a battery of a minimum of five casks and up to a maximum of 10-12 casks. Different woods are used for the barrels. Each wood gives a different aroma to the product.  The only approved woods are oak, chestnut, cherry, acacia, juniper, and ash.

The casks have a hole on the top that is closed by means of a river stone.  It does not entirely seal the cask, thus allowing vinegar evaporation, which reduces acidity.  New barrels are not suitable to start production of traditional balsamic vinegar.  They need to be initiated for at least a year.  This way the wood becomes impregnated with vinegar bacteria. 

The cooked “must” is put into the first (and largest) barrel, filled to three-quarters only, where it rests for a year.  During that time, it is attacked by the environment’s bacterial flora and slowly and progressively turns to vinegar.  This process will continue for several years.  It is best affected by a climate that is very cold in the winter, and very hot in the summer and always humid.  At the end of the first year, a part of the contents of the first cask will be transferred to a smaller barrel, usually of a different wood.  The process continues for 5-7 years until the last and smallest barrel of the batteria (battery or set) is filled again.  The process may continue for 30 years to produce a truly great balsamic vinegar.  The expertise of the producer determines the timing of the topping up of the smaller barrels with the balsamico decanted from the larger ones.  It is based on sugar content plus personal preference of the artisan producer.  There is no rushing this process. The perfectly fermented “must” rests in the last barrels for a very long time.  During that time, it becomes concentrated, gaining the aromas of the different barrel woods into which it has been placed. The liquid becomes a brilliant, shiny dark brown color and begins the miraculous balance between extreme sweetness and extreme sharpness that determines its quality.

The Aging of Balsamico

The age of balsamic vinegar is divided into three categories: young, from 3 to 5 years maturation; middle-aged 6 to 12 years; and the highly prized very old-aged at least 12 years and up to 150 years old.  Less than 3,000 gallons of genuine balsamico are released each year. Being so highly prized, many connoisseurs consider it disgraceful to cook with genuine balsamico and believe it should be enjoyed in its virgin form, untouched by heat. 

Reggio Emila designates the different ages of their vinegar by label color. A red label means that the vinegar has aged for at least 12 years (the minimum age required for Consortium approval).  A silver label means the vinegar has been aged for at least 18 years and a gold label designates the vinegar has been aged for 25 years or more.

Modena uses a different system to indicate the ages of their balsamic vinegars.  A cream-colored cap means the vinegar has aged for at least 12 years.  A golden cap bearing the designation extravecchio shows the vinegar has aged for 25 years or more.  In some families within these regions, a new battery of casks is started with the birth of a new child and the end result is given as a gift at a wedding.  Consortium golden cap sealed 100ml bottles can cost between $100 and $400.

Commercial or industrial balsamic vinegar does not go through the same period of transformation as traditional balsamic vinegar.  Some mixtures sold are nothing more than regular wine vinegar with flavorings and color added.  You will find an enormous price range on supermarket shelves.  They are generally packaged in beautiful shapely bottles and vary greatly in flavor, quality, and price.  The process and not the name on the package is what is important to discern a good quality vinegar

Condimento grade balsamic vinegar is a blend of the two above.  Some are high quality artisan-style blends and aged wine vinegars.  Others blend very old wine vinegar with a very small percentage of tradizionale and are aged in barrels for a short time.   Some even have wood chips thrown in the vat.  One of the most popular of these is labeled acetico balsamico di Modena.  Make sure to check the label for API MO and API RE, indicating that the vinegars were actually made in Modena or Reggio. 

Imitation balsamic vinegars are not made according to traditional methods and are usually made outside of Modena or Reggio.  These imitations make up as much as two-thirds of the balsamic vinegar market.  They do not contain any amount of balsamic or cooked grape must, and are usually red wine vinegar cut with water.  Since no fermentation or oxidation takes place, they can be made in a day.  A variety of ingredients are added to fake sweetness and depth, such as cane sugar, vanilla, caramel and/or herbs.

Basic Balsamic Vinegar Tips:

•     When using balsamic vinegar, do not use aluminum pots or containers.  The pan or bowl should be non-reactive.
•     Balsamic vinegars are not recommended for pickling or herb infusions.

•     Heat sweetens balsamic vinegar and boils out acidity.

•     A teaspoon or two of balsamic vinegar can wake up the flavor of a bland soup, stew or sauce.  It is phenomenal drizzled on risotto.

•     A drizzle of balsamic vinegar over strawberries or raspberries with a bit of sugar will bring out the flavor of the fruit.  Warning….this may be addictive.

•     A classic pairing for an appetizer is a piece of Parmesan Reggiano with walnuts and, of course, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

As no two vinegars will be the same, it is very important to sample each one before using it.  Check with your local gourmet specialty shops and ask about a balsamic vinegar tasting. The younger ones will have a more acidic note and may need to be balanced by another component.  The older vinegars will have a more mellow, round woody taste with acid at the finish.  If you are able to do a vinegar tasting, do not taste with bread, but take a small sip of the pure balsamic vinegar.  Who knows what treasures you may find 

Balsamic Glazed Pork Chops

Serves 4 

4        (three quarter-inch thick) center-cut pork                                            chops

1        teaspoon salt

1/2    teaspoon black pepper

2        tablespoons olive oil

6 oz   small shallots (about 8), quartered and peeled, leaving root ends in tact

2/3    cup balsamic vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

Pat pork dry and sprinkle with half of the salt and pepper.

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot, but not smoking.  Cook pork along with shallots, turning pork over once and stirring shallots occasionally, until pork is browned and shallots are golden brown and tender, about 5 minutes.  Transfer pork to a plate and add vinegar, sugar and remaining salt and pepper to shallots in skillet.  Cook, stirring until sugar is dissolved and liquid thickens slightly, about 1 minute.

Reduce heat to medium, and then return pork, along with any juices accumulated on plate, to skillet and turn 2 or 3 times to coat with sauce.  Cook, turning over once, until pork is just cooked through, about 3 minutes total.  Transfer pork to a platter and boil sauce until thickened and syrupy, 1 to 2 minutes.  Pour sauce over pork.

Poached Pears with Ricotta, Walnuts, and Balsamic Vinegar

Serves 4

1/2    cup sugar

4        large, ripe Comice or Bosc pears, halved, peeled and cored

1        cup fresh ricotta cheese

1/4    cup toasted walnuts, chopped

4        tablespoons of well-aged balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 350° F.  To make syrup, combine sugar and 1 cup of water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to boil.  Place pears in shallow ovenproof dish and pour syrup over them.  Cover with foil and bake until tender, about 20-25 minutes.  Remove from heat and cool until just warm.

Place pears halves on each of four plates with a dollop of fresh ricotta and a sprinkle of walnuts.  Drizzle balsamic vinegar over each portion and serve.