Celebrating More Than

20 Years of Wine and Food Appreciation

The Retailer’s Shelf

By Dick Scheer, Village Corner, Ann Arbor, MI

Korbel NV Brut Chardonnay Champagne, California $14

   New York City cigar makers, the Korbel brothers, came to California’s Russian River Valley in the 1880s to harvest redwood for cigar boxes. They planted grapevines in the clearings and later built a winery specializing in champagne-method sparkling wines. A unique mechanical riddling system developed at Korbel has kept production costs down, enabling it to sell its champagnes at remarkably reasonable prices. If you haven’t sampled the Korbel range beyond its popular Brut and Extra Dry, you’re in for some new treats, such as both Dry and Sweet Rosés and this fruity, appley, doughy Chardonnay, a treat with Eggs Benedict and other summer brunch classics.

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Farnese Farneto Valley 2006 Trebbiano D’Abruzzo, Italy $9

   The Abruzzo region lies on central Italy’s Adriatic coast east of Rome. It features two predominant grape varieties: the red Montepulciano and the white Trebbiano. Trebbiano of various clones grows throughout Italy south of the Alps and also southern France, where it is known as Ugni Blanc. Farnese’s is exemplary: its aromas and flavors are subtle, featuring firm pear, lemon zest and nuts and its body is light and engaging. I’m loving this with broiled whitefish.

Nobilo Regional Collection 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,
New Zealand $14

   In 1937, 24-year-old stonemason Nick Nobilo left the Adriatic isle of Korcula bound for New Zealand. Agriculture became his new endeavor, including winegrowing. Before long Nobilo was directing one of New Zealand’s first modern-day winemaking operations. After specializing in red wines for most of its history, Nobilo hitched its wagon to the rising star called Sauvignon Blanc that has become the country’s signature varietal. This one combines really intense gooseberry, spring grass and grapefruit incisiveness with softer, richer, stone and tropical fruit fragrances. Enjoy with a Thai Crabmeat Salad.

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Cline Sonoma Coast 2007 Pinot Grigio, California $12

     Fred Cline founded his winery at Oakley east of San Francisco Bay in 1982. He moved it to Sonoma’s Carneros region in the early 90s. While making a specialty of old-vines Zinfandel and red Rhone varietals from both East Bay and Sonoma vineyards, Cline has lately expanded its portfolio to include trendy whites such as Viognier and Pinot Grigio. It excels at each. Featuring aromas and flavors that are both rich (custard, hazelnut, vanilla) and racy (apple, lemon, bay leaf), this is one of the finest California Grigios I’ve tasted, but far from the most expensive. Serve with a tray of country pates and galantines.

Rutherford Ranch Napa Valley 2006 Chardonnay, California $14

     Rutherford Ranch is the successor of Round Hill Winery. Its wines retain their Napa Valley roots while Round Hill has evolved into a California-appellation brand. It amazes me how Rutherford Ranch can sell its wines at such astonishingly reasonable prices while the average Napa-grown wine costs 2-3 times more. Both Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay feature Napa Valley-class fruit married to sophisticated oak embellishments. Here, the combination of apple and caramel aromas and flavors is positively irresistible. I’m thinking Mesquite-Smoked Chicken.

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Domaine Pichot 2006 Vouvray Le Peu De La Moriette, France $16

     Vouvray lies east of Tours in central France’s Loire Valley. Of Chenin Blanc, its wine may be presented anywhere from bone dry (sec) to fully sweet (moelleux). Wines with neither label designation are likely semi-dry, such as this estate-bottled gem redolent of apple, quince, almond and Rose’s Lime Juice. Racy acidity perfectly balances its light sweetness. You won’t believe what this wine does for deep sea scallops sauteed in butter.

Martin Codax Rias Baixas 2006 Albarino, Spain $16

     While much of Spain is dry and Mediterranean-oriented, Galicia, in the northwest corner, is decidedly damp and Atlantic. The region’s river valleys feature a white grape variety called Albarino (spelled Alvarinho in Portugal’s neighboring Vinho Verde region). Like France’s Viognier and Argentina’s Torrontes, Albarino makes a wine of fruity-floral fragrance that suggests it will taste sweet, yet most renditions are fully dry. Delicious with trout amandine.

Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Dragonstone 2007 Riesling, Germany $16

   At the western tip of Rheingau (Rhine-bend), where the river flows east to west instead of its usual south-north path from Switzerland to the North Sea, Riesling vineyards climb the Taunus slopes above the village of Rudesheim. One vineyard is named Drachenstein, anglicized to “Dragonstone” on the label of Josef Leitz’s estate-grown wine. My how these young 2007 German Rieslings just shimmer with bright, juicy fruit! This one’s seamless in terms of its sweetness-acidity bond. Enjoy with sushimi.

Columbia Crest Columbia Valley 2005 Grand Estate  Merlot, Washington $13

   Sister winery to Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest plots its own course. Its Grand Estate range offers remarkable sophistication for the price, including dazzling barrel-earned complexities such as this Merlot’s milk chocolate, mocha and Asian spice set to complement its sweet cherry fruit. Typical of Washington’s Merlots, its acidity is mouthwatering. Superb with crown of lamb.

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La Vieille Ferme 2007 Cotes Du Rhone Rosé, France $9

   The Perrin brothers of famous Chateauneuf du Pape estate Chateau de Beaucastel have developed a very popular brand of Rhone Valley wines in their La Vieille Ferme, “The Old Farm.” These are delicious dry red, rosé and white table wines that, despite the dollar’s decline, remain bargain-priced. The rosé is of Cinsaut, Grenache, and Syrah and features aromas and flavors of each, suggesting respectively, cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Ideal with bouillabaisse.

J. Lohr Monterey 2007 Wildflower Valdiguie, California $12

   Valdiguie once grew widely in southwest France and coastal California but has largely disappeared from both lands. Twentieth century Californians called it Napa Gamay, though it bears no relation to the Gamay grape of eastern France’s Beaujolais region other than its tendency to yield exceptionally fruity, low tannin, early drinking red wines. Lohr’s unique Wildflower Valdiguie smells and tastes of purple berries, especially boysenberries. You can give it a light chilling for refreshment and still not suppress its aromatic buoyancy. I’m thinking andouillettes.

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Trinity Oaks 2006 Pinot Noir, Calif. $9

  Since the movie Sideways Pinot Noir popularity has soared and, with it, grape prices. Read your California-brand Pinot Noir labels carefully. Many under $10 wines are actually sourced abroad and do not deliver the same up-front fruit appeal of California-grown grapes. Trinity Oaks, from the Sutter Home folks, offers those wonderful cherry, straw and tea aromas of ripe California Pinot Noir. At a bargain price. Great with sautéed baby beef liver.

Castello Di Querceto 2006 Chianti, Italy $10

  Castello di Querceto lies near Greve in northern Chianti Classico, source of the most elegant “Margaux-like” wines of the DOCG. It has nearby vineyards outside of Classico too, in the surrounding Chianti zone. What a lovely introduction to Tuscan Sangiovese this is: a complex of cherry, both sweet and dried, mulberry, plum, orange peel, anise and pipe tobacco. The acidity is racy and its light glycerol component smooth. Invites roast saddle of hare. 

Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel $16

  Rancho Zabaco is named after an old Spanish land grant that included much of today’s Sonoma County. “Heritage” refers to old vines and old clones that are the basis of Sonoma Zinfandel’s fame. This is classic Sonoma Zinfandel indeed, redolent of raspberry and peppercorn fruit contributions enhanced by vanilla, mocha and baking-spice barrel derivatives. A fully concentrated amalgam of fruit sweetness and power. Serve with barbecued beef brisket with a sweet and tangy marinade.

Jacob’s Creek Southeastern Australia 2006 Shiraz, Australia $9

     After the Tasters Guild Double Gold Medal-winning 2005 sold out, I wondered whether the 2006 could fill its shoes. No problem; the vintage is another Aussie success story, and so is Jacob’s Creek. Both wines have shown me the sort of pedigree that suggests superior regions of origin, as well as a nuttiness and suavity that comes from barrel seasoning. This 2006 is delicious right now and will improve for at least another year as well. Try with Szechuan Orange Beef.

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